There was a time when a small village on a hilltop in Paris was the center of the universe. Outside the city limits, it was covered with vineyards and quarries. It was a working-class neighborhood where the rent was cheap and the wine was tax-free. For years it was the Bohemian artistic quarter where writers and artists gathered. With it's narrow and steep cobblestone streets, stairways and Place du Tetre, Montmartre is one of the most poetic spots in Paris. Montmartre has retained much of its character and small village charm because it is a designated historic area and little development is allowed. And even though it is a little Disneyesque and contrived, it's a fun place to visit and get a sense for yesteryear.
Montmartre's most recognizable landmark, Sacré-Coeur Basilica sits atop Butte Montmartre:
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| Sacré-Coeur Basilica, the highest point in Paris |
You can get to Sacré-Coeur by climbing a lot of steps or taking the funicular from the Place Suzanne-Valadon to the Place Willette just below Sacré-Coeur.
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| The funicular and stairway to the right |
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| There are a LOT of steps to the top! |
The Steps of Sacré-Coeur are reminiscent of the Spanish Steps in Rome - lots of people hang out here; having a picnic, soaking up the rays, busking, and of course, catching your breath! The views from here are beautiful, and natch, this is my favorite!
It was a warm spring day when we were here, and the sun was still fairly low in the sky and the light was harsh and contrasty. Not the best for landscape photography, but way cool for shadows!
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| Shadow of ornate, wrought iron fence |
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| Moi, Dennis and Beth - guess who's who? |
No photos are allowed inside the basilica, so I'll share some interesting facts about it instead:
- Architect Paul Abadie designed the basilica, winning a competition over 77 other architects.
- The architecture of the basilica is a loose interpretation of the Roman-Byzantine style.
- Sacré-Cœur is built from travertine stone that constantly oozes calcite, keeping the basilica white.
- The mosaic in the apse is one of the largest in the world.
- You can climb the dome for an even more spectacular panoramic view of Paris.
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| View of the dome and interesting architecture |
The Church of St. Pierre-de-Montmartre is one of Paris' oldest and dates back to 1147. It is just round back of Sacré-Cœur and they do allow photos.
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| View to the altar |
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| View from the altar |
The name Montmartre comes from the Roman "Mount of Mars," and four, ancient gray columns in the church are believed to be from a temple of Mercury or Mars in Roman times.
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| One of two ancient gray columns at the entrance |
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| Another ancient column bathed in stained-glass light |
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| More stained-glass light on the worn tile floor |
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| Statue of St. Peter on the right - see his foot sticking out just a bit? |
The faithful believe that if you rub St. Peter's foot you'll have good luck, but apparently only his right foot as it is kept bright and shiny from all the rubbing:
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| Bonne chance! |
Outside this little church are the reminders that this was the center of Bohemian life in the late 19th century:
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| Reminders of a bygone era |
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| Despite modern dress and souvenir shops, this quaint cobblestone street retains old world charm |
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| The ATM and surveillance cams are the only things spoiling the view! |
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| Place du Tetre is lined with cafes... |
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| ...and filled with artists |
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| On Rue Norvins, looking back at the dome of Sacré-Cœur |
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| Field trip to Montmartre - Lapin Agile Cabaret |
The Lapin Agile Cabaret was the village hot spot. Picasso, Renoir, Utrillo, Paul Verlaine, Modigliani and other artists and writers gathered here for performances of poetry, limericks, sing-alongs and parodies.
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| The agile rabbit - escaping the stew pot! |
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| La Maison Rose - a restaurant made famous by an Utrillo painting, it was frequented by Utrillo, Picasso and Gertrude Stein. |
Of course, we had to stroll through the park Place Suzanne Buisson. In the park is another statue of St. Denis.
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| St. Denis carrying his head |
In the 3rd century, Denis was a Bishop of Paris. He was sentenced to death by the Romans for spreading Christianity. He was executed, and martyred by being beheaded with a sword. Legend says that after his head was chopped off, Denis picked up his head and walked 10 kilometers to the summit of Mont Mars (Montmartre), preaching a sermon the entire way. For this reason, some say that Montmartre is from Mount of Martyrs instead of Mount of Mars.
The parks in Paris are inviting open spaces for the folks living in cramped apartments:
We chatted with a woman in the park and she recommended we visit a nearby street,
Villa Léandre, as it is the only one in Paris that has single-family row houses. It is a lovely, quiet street:
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| Villa Léandre - also known as Little London and Parisian Notting Hill |
We ended our tour at the Moulin de la Galette:
There are two windmills remaining in Montmartre, here at Moulin de la Galette. The mills were used for pressing grapes and grain and crushing rocks. As the gypsum mines and vineyards gave way to apartments, this particular windmill became the centerpiece for a popular outdoor dance hall. Renoir's painting
Bal du Moulin de la Galette (now in the Orsay) shows the outdoor dance hall on a sunny afternoon in the shaded gardens with people dancing. This painting is considered the quintessential Impressionist work and the painting that best captures the joy of the Bohemian Montmarte lifestyle.
And because, as I said before, there are always interesting sights in Paris, I leave you with this fine view of Montmartre:
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| Catching the rays, high above the city! |
Loved the tour of Montmartre! Thanks.
ReplyDeleteI had heard the martyr story about the name, and not the Mars story.
ReplyDeleteThe no pictures in Sacré-Cœur is new, and strictly enforced. they have a man near the entrance who shushes people who are talking and watches for people sneaking photos. He is pretty funny, he will see someone with a camera and call them over and point to the no photos sign, like they are school children.